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When curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee well-known award-winning names. Yet, tucked near the top among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that led to their modest place achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary honour.